Poinsettia
Poinsettia pulcherrima (syn. Euphorbia pulchenima)
Flowers ~ December, January
Potting or re-potting time ~ May
Position in garden during summer ~ Sun
Soil (see *)

Poinsettia, whose broad scarlet bracts are at their showy best in December, was first introduced from Mexico in 1828, and has been a favourite Christmas plant ever since. Bracts are at their best on forced plants. The actual flowers are small yellow bowls clustered in the center of the colorful, modified leave or bracts which many people think of as the flowers.

Poinsettia is touchy and requires skill to keep a plant in good condition for more than the few weeks. The roots rebel at extremes of dryness or moisture. Water only when the soil is obviously dry. Give lots of sun and grow at a temperature of at least 70 degrees. Too much water or a slight chill will cause the leaves and bracts to fall.

In March or April, poinsettia will show signs of requiring dormancy. Leaves and bracts will fade and gradually drop from the stems. Put the plant in hibernation --on its side, in a cool cellar and leave it to "rest" until May. At that point prune the plant until only 4 inches of stem growth protrudes above the pot. Re-pot in the next larger size container and plunge in the garden when weather is dependably warm. Return the plant to the indoors in early September.


* Poinsettia Potting Mixture

For general potting, especially for such plants as the garden geranium, fuchsias, chrysanthemums, Sansevieria, Pandanus, palms, etc.

• 1 part sharp sand
• 2 parts loam
• 1 part leaf mold or humus
• 1/2 part dried cow manure
• 1 -- 5-inch flower pot full of bone meal to
...each bushel of the mixture